Souvenirs from Tok

So I rolled into the driveway, 1784 miles later from my Klondike Loop motorcycle ride. Exhausted enough that I almost couldn't climb off the bike, let alone unpack it, wash it, and do the maintenance needed for the next trip.  Sigh.  It looked like rain.

When Jaz and I rolled out of Tok last Tuesday, the sky looked angry. Angry enough to take extra precautions. We both suited up with all the warm clothes we brought. Jaz joked about having lots of empty space in the saddlebags for souvenirs from Tok. I looked like a condom meets Michelin Woman! I was wrapped in rain gear over my heavier riding gear. I had my heated jacket and gloves. I was a toasty warm slug.

Images: http://scientopia.org (condom), and http://www.sporkmedia.com

So the trip is over and I have all this maintenance I need to do on the bike. The chip seal on the Canadian roads ate my rear tire tread away. All the shops in Anchorage want way too much to change this tire (~$200) or can't get to it until the summer is over.  I guess I'm going to have to spend a weekend fixing my bike rather than riding it.  But not this weekend, I'm going to Seattle for some R and R from my ride.

Chip seal takes it's toll on factory KLR tires - ~5000 miles

                               Here are the trip details:

Click on map for a larger image

Total mileage was close to 1800 miles, and it is referred to by the locals as the Klondike Loop. 

• We did it in roughly 7 days. 
• The trip was mostly paved road, but there was a section from points H to C (Taylor Highway and the Top of the World)  that contained mostly dirt/challenged road. This portion of the road is weather dependent on how safe/good you can travel. It is roughly 130 miles of dirt/challenged road.
• The worst part of chip seal occurred between points C and D.This part of the road was also very repetitive (granted gorgeous repetition) and it's easy to fall asleep here. Do this section after a good nights rest!
• There are two ferry crossings. One is free and a no brainer. That is the Yukon River near Dawson, at point C. The second ferry crossing requires you to pre-purchase tickets from the Alaska Marine Highway system. This is a one way ticket between Skagway, Alaska and Haines, Alaska. The boat trip is about 45 minutes, but they require you to check in 2 hours prior to departure. We have no idea why, we stood around and waited. You should have your own tie down straps for the boat ride.
• We took one day off in Dawson to drink Black Death at Klondike Kates. WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS.
• There are two liquior stores in Dawson... the best one is on 3rd Street.
• Our schedule allowed a leisure pace to photograph and take our time. Even so, some of the roads are hard... the mileage should not be measured with Freeway/Interstate mileage in mind.  It is tiring because the roads are filled with potholes and heaves, dirt and water trenches. You waste a lot of energy looking for road issues.
• Gas was not a problem.. anywhere along the way.
• There are numerous US Border/Canadian crossings. Make sure your papers are in order.
• It is highly recommended that you carry both US and Canadian Money.
• Don't forget to call your credit card company and tell them you are traveling between two countries... or you might end up like Jaz.... threatening the guy at Wells Fargo that your going to reach down his throat and rip his fucking lungs out if your card doesn't work tomorrow... oh wait. She did call, but they still fucked her. Have a back up plan.
• Cell phone coverage could not be counted on while traveling the roads, but we had internet service at all hotels/B and B's we stayed in.

We stayed at:
Red  Eagle Lodge @ Chistochina (on account of having to work the same day we left)
5th Avenue B and B in Dawson (Highly Recommended - They are cool)
Casey's B and B in Whitehorse ( Okay... but nothing to write home about)
The Historic Halsingland (It is historic.... but I like old buildings) Not right in town, but they have a nice place to eat and a bar right on the premises.
Kluane B and B (very rustic!) but gorgeous. If you want a view this is the place for you - right on the beach of Kluane. It is right next to an old ghost town, so you can take pictures. BE WARNED - it is remote... bring your own dinner/lunch. They serve a nice breakfast. Closest cup of espresso: 30 miles.
The Golden Bear in Tok (as always... they are very biker friendly and highly recommended)

DO NOT EAT or STAY in Glennallen, AK at the Caribou!!!
DO NOT EAT in Beaver Creek, YT. Canada at Buckaroo Betty's. The one thing this place has been over the last 15 years is consistently bad! It looks nice outside... but trust me!

Emerald Waters, Prostitution and Pizza, and Jazisms

Today was one of the most beautiful drives! I give the Klondike Highway a 5 star rating in roads I have driven. The road had spectacular scenery that was constantly changing. It had windy turns and curve after curve with lots of pull outs to take pictures.  There were beautiful lakes that are the gorgeous teal green color on account of marl, there was snow, and there was the world’s smallest desert.

Emerald Lake on the Klondike Highway - note the teal colored water

 The headwaters of the mighty Yukon River (almost 2000 miles - 3rd largest river in North amerika)

The day started with Jaz cooking my breakfast. We stayed in a “B and Cook your own Breakfast” last night in Dawson. It was a decent place within walking distance of downtown Whitehorse. We opted for Sanchez’s Cantina for Mexican and a margarita. The food was the best two borders north of the border! Amazing that Whitehorse would have such a gem. We learned later that the women that runs the place spends winters in Mexico with her family.

We hit the grocery store on the way out of town and our observations on Canadian’s still hold true… they only have two speeds: slow and very slow. The Canadian guy next two us overheard us talking about this and added this was the case unless you were from Vancouver or Toronto, and then you were a little faster. He said folks from smaller parts of Canada go to the city for a vacation to speed up temporarily. He was frustrated too.

We headed out of town with a Canadian Mountie on our tail… we were very careful not to speed! The last thing I wanted was a ticket in Canada – he lost interest. Not too far down the road we tuned south and left the Yukon Territory. There were no “Oh Crap” or “Oh My God” moments on this road… nice chipseal all the way. There were less bugs, but also less flowers.  Yesterday on the road from Dawson to Whitehorse the roads were lined on both sides for a couple of hundred miles with wildflowers… purple lines of dwarf fireweed. I failed to get pictures of that.  Next time.

We passed into amerika and into the town of Skagway, Alaska. We rolled right up to the Red Onion, parked and walked in and ordered pizza. For those of you that do not know the Red Onion, it is a must see while visiting Skagway. It is a historic brothel turned pizza place… you can still tour the cribs upstairs for $5, apparently what a client paid in 1898 for 15 minutes.  I picked up a couple of garter belts for souvenirs and we headed out the door to walk the town. The Soapy Smith parlor was sporting a new roof, but the building has a long way to go before it’s finished.

 Inside the Red Onion, Skagway

We caught the early evening ferry for Haines and were checked into the historic Halsingland Hotel at Fort Seward for the evening. We spent the evening dining on lamb and sipping cosmos. Afterwords we walked the National Historic Landmark Fort Seward and took photographs. I took one in particular that made me chuckle. Here is the photo… can you guess why I chuckled? 

 Why is this photo ironic? (Hint: it is a photo of one of the old officer's housing buildings at Historic Fort Seward)

 Ferry approaching Haines dock

 Parked on the sidewalk at the historic Halsingland Hotel in Fort Seward

The Halsingland has historic plumbing too. I messy shower got the floor wet… then Jaz walked in and we almost had a “women down”! It would be a shame to travel as far as we have and her slip in the bathroom and hurt herself. Most accidents occur in the bathroom. I think I will increase my motorcycle mileage and decrease my baths.

Some of my more favorite Jaz (Jazisms) quotes this trip:

“Do right but lean left”

“It’s not what you ride, but how you ride”

“I’m going to reach through the phone and down your throat and rip your lungs out Jim… if my credit card doesn’t work tomorrow” (overhead while she was on the phone)

Off to someplace near Kluane National Park and Preserve… we reserved a place out there… the proprietor  said it was “rustic”… if we want to eat food we should pack it in. Hmmm. Rustic as defined by a Canadian could be interesting! I’ll let you know in Tok.. the day after tomorrow. Chances are that if he doesn’t have food… he doesn’t have wifi.