Monday, November 5, 2012

A Parka in Palmer

I was getting a little stir crazy around the house. I asked Kim if she wanted to go winter camping... she did. Off we headed.

You would think that winter camping would be pretty easy, but I had a couple of requirements. An outhouse... in case we needed to poop. A great view away from city lights to enjoy the darkness. I place where we could hang out and do something.. either a trail to hike, or a bar where we could drink a beer. That was it. Running water or heat was not necessary.

First on the list was going down to Seward to hike as far up the Harding Ice Field as possible. I called and found out the park road was closed. In addition, runoff had covered the trail freezing over in many areas, making glare ice and dangerous conditions. I had ice cleats, but Kim did not. Seward was out.

Talkeetna was second on the list. I called every campground on the map and they were all closed up for the winter. I have no issues with pitching my tent in a field, or in the trees off the side of the road, or on the banks of a river, but I could do that closer to Anchorage and not drive 240 miles round trip. In addition, the area had suffered some serious flooding, recently. Talkeetna was out.

We headed up to Eklutna Lake. It was a wonderful drive, the sky was clear blue. The lake not yet frozen over. The campground was closed. Wtf. We briefly considered pitching our tent right next to the sign that said no camping, but I didn't want to pay for a ticket (again). We walked to the lake and enjoyed the view and headed to Palmer, Alaska.

Image of Eklutna Lake in Alaska.
Eklutna Lake this weekend - Campground closed for winter.
The Knik Glacier is just 50 miles from Anchorage, on the northern end of the Chugach Mountains. The Knik Glacier feeds the 25 mile long Knik River, which drains into the Cook Inlet. That is a lot of Knik (pronounced Ka-nick). We pulled off right there at river access near the Old Glenn. We had the place all to ourselves.  Wind was low, temps were low teens. We figured the night time temps and the proximity to the water would put us at about 0 degrees for the night. Balmy temps. No outhouse, bar, or trail, but no ticket either.

Winter parka in Palmer.... Barrow rated.
We set up the tent, built a fire ring and set up the firewood. Night was upon us: the sunset is at about 4:45 p.m. this time of year (sunrise is about 8:40 a.m). We pulled out the jet boil and tried to have a nice hot spaghetti and veggie dinner with garlic bread and wine. Instead of candlelight we had headlamps. The dinner was hot when it hit the plates, but the veggies quickly froze, along with the bread. Kim was laughing at me because I tucked my bread inside my coat to keep it from freezing. I gulped the dinner down to have at least luke-warm food. The wine froze.

Image of cooking spaghetti while camping
Spaghetti via Jet Boil

The fire would not stay lit, and we soon lost interest in it anyway. Neither one of us are a fan of smores; we just ate chocolate. We had a discussion earlier on what would be warmer... A classic fur lined winter parka from Barrow, Alaska (Kim lived in Barrow for 15 years and her sister-in-law made it for her), or my synthetic and downed Mountain Hardware with silk lining. We crawled into the tent.

We read for a while (Kim brought along something about cool Android apps), I brought Buddhist literature. We chatted the night away and snuggled down into our bags.

Image of reading by headlamp
Kim reads  in the tent all about Android Apps in about 10 degrees... via headlamp.
At some point in the early morning hours Kim went out to go pee. She couldn't find her boots, so she wore mine (one whole size smaller - she must have been desperate). She said she was desperate enough to go outside in her stocking feet - which I said is the sign of a true Alaskan.

We got up early in the morning, the night sky still dark, the stars were gorgeous, the half-moon bright when no city lights interfere. We got everything packed in the truck... we had chocolate for breakfast and headed to the coffee shop for a cappuccino. Although I brought the French press, it was too cold to make coffee that way, and I knew Vagabond Blues was not too far away.

The view from our tent site. Winter camping near Knik River, Alaska.

P.S.; I didn't freeze while sleeping... she did.
She didn't freeze while standing in the wind for hours... I did.

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Sex, Motorcycles, and Leather...

Today I realized just how much of a freak I am. I was washing my motorcycle. Cleaning off a season’s worth of dirt and grime, watching the shiny red and black show through the mud.  I realized as I was spending this quiet time with my wonderful bike… how much I love it. I was actually getting turned on! Now that was a surprise!

This was sexy…sulty.. the leather seat… I can’t describe what it feels like to raise your leg over the saddle and slide across the leather.  Placing your feet on the pedals… positioning them to where u can push on them… straddle if I want. I closed my eyes and breathed. I could feel of the wind in my face, cool… with just a hint of smoke and dirt in the air.
The sun caressing my face…  every muscle in your body tight, in shape.  Strong. Powerful.
I opened my eyes and a devilish smile spread across my lips.  I could almost taste the adventure. This is sexy. My heart rate increased. I tightened my hands on the grips… my smile grew wider. The bike doesn’t represent adventure… it is adventure.

I think I am seriously in love with my motorcycle… 

Now.. to go on a ride with someone I really love... the smile got broader.

ssssshhhhh.
Don't tell anyone I posted this.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

A Symphony of Lights

So I was lying in bed Friday night, my condo faces east towards the Chugach Mountains in Anchorage – only a half a dozen blocks from the end of the city. I live on the edge of night pollution. The dark mountains rise just outside my window. My room on the 3rd floor and the hill that the condo sits on puts me above the neighborhood… with an unobstructed view of the night sky. Sometimes I sleep with the curtains open – like Friday night. Facebook friends had reported Northern Lights activity from Anchorage to Fairbanks, and I wanted to keep an eye out. I checked the Poker Flats webcam, and the lights were “singing” brightly far north.


Poker Flats web cam is located 30 miles north of Fairbanks, AK.

I woke up with a sudden start at 3:00 am, and found my eyes opened to an amazing display of green lights moving across the night sky filling my window… with magic. I jumped out of bed and texted my friend Marla who had flown up from Portland for the weekend. She was staying downtown in a hotel – in the middle of light pollution. She looked out the window and texted me back that “Ur dreaming.”


By then I was running to the car, in jammies with hastily grabbed hats and mittens and my nice long downed dress coat (it was about 22 degrees). I was in the car and headed downtown to get Marla. She needed out of the light pollution - I texted back to be ready in 5.  Plotting where to go quickly above the city lights where I would not be met by a locked gate at 3:30 am…led me to Far North Bicentennial Park.

Of course, 20 years ago, I would have found a nice clear area above the city, but housing development has made it more challenging. We found a spot in total darkness above the city lights, outside of light pollution with a grand view. And grand it was!

The lights of Anchorage are seen beneath the aurora in this view from the Glen Alps overlook. The Northern Lights gave a strong showing over Anchorage on the evening of October 12, 2012. Dozens of sky watchers gathered at the Glen Alps Trailhead of Chugach State Park to watch the green ribbons dance over the peaks and the city. MARC LESTER — Anchorage Daily News

Read more here: http://www.adn.com/2012/10/13/2659098/aurora-over-anchorage-oct-12-2012.html#wgt=rcntmulti#storylink=cpy


The lights pulsed across the city Friday night in a way I have never seen. I’m accustomed to shimmering and iridescent movement in Anchorage often characterized by green and white. The northern lights come in a variety of colors that are dependent on different gases getting excited/ionized by incoming charged particles. When oxygen atoms and molecules get bombarded they release green and red photons. When nitrogen molecules get struck they release the beautiful and rare purple light.

Friday nights display was oxygen driven, but what was unique about this display was the pulsing that the lights seem to exhibit. The familiar experience I can describe best - imagine your mother’s sheer curtains draping across the sky in an almost ghostly green effect - was instead…this night… more like flames.

There are no words to describe what the lights look like. I’m not even going to try… lost cause. You just have to put it on your bucket list and become a “hunter” – term used to describe people trying to figure out where and when to see the lights. Hunters flock to Alaska every year with lots of website URL’s and tools to help narrow down the hunt, but there is always a certain amount of luck. You have to be up.

Marla and I watched the lights for nearly 2 hours, something also rare. Usually you get a short lived experience before they move on. Friday night they hung out for hours allowing us the opportunity to explore them and discuss the qualities of the display from the ones of the past (Marla is a successful well-seasoned huntress).  The warmer temperatures, in comparison to 30 below, allowed us the luxury or having conversation about the lights, not impeded by arctic gear. Also, it took a lot longer before my feet were cold.

The lights on this instance pulsed sometimes in rhythm, sometimes not…similar to a symphony playing across the sky… violins (in allegro) and cellos (beginning in andante, ending in lento). The overall composition reminded me of Tchaikovsky.

Marla brought up the resemblance of these pulsing lights to time-lapsed photography, of the streaking clouds and car lights in a cityscape. Except, these lights were occurring in real time.
I also saw a resemblance to flames. When you watch a campfire for hours and see the gaseous flickering at the perimeter of the fire… blues and negative space dancing at the whim of the wind… distorted visual space. The lights on Friday were like that.  We had a discussion about how no medium can capture and convey the essence of the Northern Lights, no matter how technologically advanced. Video, cameras, even words… all dimensionally flat. We thought music was probably the only thing that could come close.  By then we were cold… we climbed back in my truck.

I renamed my sun roof to the aurora roof. I opened the aurora roof. I could only shut off the truck lights and the dash lights; the clock light seemed so loud in the dark. I covered the clock . I turned Yo Yo Ma on. It was magical! Music is the closest thing to describe the lights. We watched the lights to the cello. 

The lights moved to fill the space created by the “aurora roof” … they lingered and combined with Yo Yo Ma. We enjoyed the gift for quite some time. We made the conscious decision to leave the symphony before the piece was over.

We drove off the mountains with the lights still performing…  by the way Marla brought me a resupply of huckleberries!

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

End-of-Summer Blues


I did my last motorcycle ride in Alaska for the year. The snow was falling last weekend. I was worried I was going to wake up to a foot of fresh snow in Anchorage, and not have the bike ready for winter. This was on account that I am being snotty and refusing to believe that winter is actually here.

Image of my changing a flat tire on trailer


Sigh. I have also been hedging on whether or not to sell my trailer. Normally I store my Alaska motorcycle along with all my pedal bikes in the trailer for the winter. This year I figured I would sell the trailer and just keep the bikes in the garage. I went to the storage lot and found a flat tire on the trailer. A quick 15 minute errand turned into a couple of hours… by the time I was finished.

Image of woman fixing flat tire


I think I will keep the trailer.

I spent the weekend washing the mud off my gear and packing everything up. I was like a pouting kid. I got Sta-ble in the tank. It’s already for storage…

Image of bottle of Sta-bil Fuel Stabilizer for motorcycle

Somewhere in the back of my mind lies the thought… if it’s sunny this weekend, maybe I can add more Sta-ble…

Of course… the BMW is in Phoenix. It should be cool enough to take a nice November stroll.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

McCarthy Road, Copper Moose, and Details


I neglected to post the last day on the road from Kennicott a couple of weekends ago. Here are the details:
We left the Copper Moose early, the owner made us breakfast. It was very nice and he got up at 5 am to get us out the door early. That was very thoughtful and appreciated. There were not a lot of places to eat in this neck of the woods, and short of the Princess Lodge, we would have had to go all the way to Eureka for breakfast on account that it is personal policy to not eat in the Holy City (Glennallen).
We out our kickstands up at 7 am and headed home. The sky let loose with rain just outside of Glennallen.  My windscreen kept fogging up. I kept trying to wipe my sunglasses and my helmet face shield because I couldn't see; then I realized if was really foggy outside. My heated gear stopped working and by the time we hit Sheep Mountain I was a popsicle with chattering teeth (and probably blue lips). Turns out one of the cords fried. Jaz gave up one of hers (isn’t that just absolutely sweet?) and I was okay the rest of the way home. I need to get her flowers or a new set of cords or something. The stop also allowed me to take off a few wet items and put on a rain jacket under my riding coat. We rolled into Anchorage in short time.
I hit the hot shower, put on the work clothes and made a half day out of it.  Good ride. I did manage to get more Go Pro coverage of the trip. Someday I will have time to play with that.

I think this was the last long ride of the season. Soon I will need to get the Alaska motorcycle ready for winter storage. I'm moving the Arizona bike to Utah for the winter. This means there are probably no long motorcycle rides this winter. April will be here soon. Although no more long rides are possible in Alaska, one or two short ones are left!

Grilled 4 cheese with pesto and tomatoes at Vagabond Blues in Palmer

Now, I am going to sip the last of my cap, and enjoy the day. Kim made me promise to take her on a short motorcycle ride. I hate giving anyone a ride… I only like to be responsible for my own life. The compromise is one ride a year. Today is the day. We are going to enjoy the fall leaves and the ride to Palmer for lunch at Vagabond Blues on account of the fact that the Red Beet Bistro is closed on Sunday.

Kennicott Trip Details:
We left Anchorage Friday afternoon so I could work a half day; I returned in enough time to work a half day on Monday.
  • We did the trip in roughly 3 days, but u should plan for at least 4 days depending on how much you want to explore Wrangell - St. Elias National Park and Preserve.
  • We thought the gas station in Chitina would be open. It was not causing a total back track of 60 miles for gas. Get gas in Kenny Lake, it’s the last opportunity. Take extra gas if you can.
  • Make sure you take extra tubes or have the tools to change out your tires if you get a flat, the possibility of a flat on this road is greater than any other road in Alaska. Cell phone coverage is not present for a lot of the road. Don’t count on your roadside assistance swinging in for the rescue.
  • Don’t eat or stay in Glenallen if you want to live. We stayed at that the Tonsina river lodge going down, but the Copper Moose B and B was more pleasant; I wished we had stayed there going and coming. The owner was talking about retiring. If they are not open, then Copper Center, Hotel Chitina, or the Princess Lodge would be good alternatives.
  • The Kennicott Glacier Lodge is about 4 miles up higher than McCarthy. Stay at the lodge one night for wining and dining; enjoy the next full day exploring the historic structures. Stay the second night down in McCarthy and enjoy the strangeness.
  • If you smoke, make sure you have enough to last you 3 days and everything critical you might need. DO NOT EXPECT A STORE, closest store was Glennallen!
  • Food is available from several eating establishments. Camping is possible, but hauling all the water and cooking supplies may not be worth the effort on this one. If you only have room for a few items, take the extra tubes and tools and stay in a B and B.
  • If you have the time, sign up ahead for the glacier ½ day tour at the top.
  • Stop at Sheep Mountain lodge for soup and make sure you get bread roll.
  • A great loop would have been to go to Valdez on the return and put your bike on the ferry, getting off in Whittier. I didn’t have the time on this trip.

Total trip round trip mileage: 636 miles
Anchorage to Tonsina River Lodge,  (217 miles)
Tonsina River Lodge to Chitina,  (37 miles)
Chitina AK to McCarthy, (60 miles)
McCarthy to Kennicott, (4 miles)
Kennitcott to Copper Moose, (96 miles)
Copper Moose to Anchorage, (211 miles)

Tonsina River Lodge
Mile 79, Richardson Highway, Copper Center, AK 99573
(907) 822-3000

McCarthy Lodge
101 Kennicott Ave, McCarthy, AK 99588
(214) 357-5522

Copper Moose Bed & Breakfast
Old Edgerton Highway
Copper Center, AK 99573
(907) 822-4244
coppermoosebb.com

Map of the trip. Pins on map are places mentioned above: